Gents. Been using Tough satin for the engine and small parts.....with and without log burner. I can't do the frame like this, not enough room in the kitchen above the log burner.
So, I have an HVLP Earlex4000. It sprays stain/varnish great on wood. Did some walls in the barn but had to dilute the paint a lot.
I have access to a 50 ltr compressor and spray gun.
So, what paint do you use, will the HVLP sprayer cope?
Cheers
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Paint and spraying methods
Moderators: chrisu, paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R
Re: Paint and spraying methods
I used Two Pack acrylic. It took me a while to sort out the technique and I know there are better people to give advice but I got the best results when I put a second inline regulator on the bottom of the gun for much easier control of the pressure. Also don't forget the moisture separator.
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Re: Paint and spraying methods
There is a company in the UK called HMG paints that do a 1k finish coat, i use there produts all the time. link below.
https://www.hmgpaint.com/products/all-p ... rad-enamel
They have a single pack hard wearing paint used on the likes of trucks or other vehicles that cant fit in an oven, Avoid 2k paint unless you have the proper mask and ventilation, the sh*t will screw your lungs very quickly, no joke.
https://www.hmgpaint.com/products/all-p ... rad-enamel
They have a single pack hard wearing paint used on the likes of trucks or other vehicles that cant fit in an oven, Avoid 2k paint unless you have the proper mask and ventilation, the sh*t will screw your lungs very quickly, no joke.
Angus.
Too many bikes to list.
Too many bikes to list.
Re: Paint and spraying methods
Hi Pete
I prefer 2 K epoxy paint but you need to take precautions! A good breathing mask to protect your lungs is important!
make sure that your compressor can provide enough air because painting a frame takes me about 1,5 hours.
I use RAL 9005 black paint), with 80% gloss.
You can buy the black paint from Restom allthough that's not a 2K paint, perhaps it's an alternative.
GrtZ
Philippe
I prefer 2 K epoxy paint but you need to take precautions! A good breathing mask to protect your lungs is important!
make sure that your compressor can provide enough air because painting a frame takes me about 1,5 hours.
I use RAL 9005 black paint), with 80% gloss.
You can buy the black paint from Restom allthough that's not a 2K paint, perhaps it's an alternative.
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Paint and spraying methods
Thanks chaps. I think I need to do some reading to understand the types of paint, mixing, pros and cons, primers, clear coats etc.
I've checked both sites and I'm guessing this is a 2K with it having a hardener?
https://www.restom.net/fr/30-431-restom ... ids_g-1000
Thinking of avoiding that if it is and needs specialist safety equipment.
Going to dig out the Earlex to see if it still works and what it can cope with, viscosity wise.
What would the viscosity of paint be equivalent to?
As I said, I know nothing about this but want to learn.
Thanks again
I've checked both sites and I'm guessing this is a 2K with it having a hardener?
https://www.restom.net/fr/30-431-restom ... ids_g-1000
Thinking of avoiding that if it is and needs specialist safety equipment.
Going to dig out the Earlex to see if it still works and what it can cope with, viscosity wise.
What would the viscosity of paint be equivalent to?
As I said, I know nothing about this but want to learn.
Thanks again
Pete
Re: Paint and spraying methods
Thinking of avoiding that if it is and needs specialist safety equipment.
[/quote]
A suitable mask cost me about €50 and to be honest I wouldn't spray any paint without one regardless, also nitrile gloves and safety specs. I don't have an extraction system but I do have a well ventilated sub divided room in the shed. I usually put in a space heater or paraglow heater, get the room up to temp if its cold and then switch the heaters of and remove before spraying. it works for me. If it is only the expense of the safety gear that puts you of 2K. Fair enough if you think one pack products are better.
Just my thoughts
[/quote]
A suitable mask cost me about €50 and to be honest I wouldn't spray any paint without one regardless, also nitrile gloves and safety specs. I don't have an extraction system but I do have a well ventilated sub divided room in the shed. I usually put in a space heater or paraglow heater, get the room up to temp if its cold and then switch the heaters of and remove before spraying. it works for me. If it is only the expense of the safety gear that puts you of 2K. Fair enough if you think one pack products are better.
Just my thoughts
Re: Paint and spraying methods
Thanks again. Earlex is missing the paint tin tube and spares don't seem to be available so it looks like I'm onto an 8 bar 50 litre compressor off my mate and a spray gun.
Just watched this to get an idea of the differences.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGxTV2_YgAk
I have got a garage that I can turn into a clean space but won't have ventilation apart from leaving the door open. Possibly not a good idea considering the temps needed and winter coming?
Could someone post a link to actual paint, thinners, hardeners etc that would paint a GPz11 frame and some small bits and pieces from a supplier please to give me an idea of the quantities etc? Still open to both types and very open to any advise.
Cheers
Just watched this to get an idea of the differences.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGxTV2_YgAk
I have got a garage that I can turn into a clean space but won't have ventilation apart from leaving the door open. Possibly not a good idea considering the temps needed and winter coming?
Could someone post a link to actual paint, thinners, hardeners etc that would paint a GPz11 frame and some small bits and pieces from a supplier please to give me an idea of the quantities etc? Still open to both types and very open to any advise.
Cheers
Pete
Re: Paint and spraying methods
Just been doing more reading. It looks like that small 2hp compressor may not be up to it. I need to find out the specs of my mates gun in l/m and times by 1.5 to see if the comp is up for it. If I've read that correctly?
220 l/m free air delivery, 111 l/m returned air, whatever that means?
220 l/m free air delivery, 111 l/m returned air, whatever that means?
Pete
Re: Paint and spraying methods
moizeau wrote: that I can turn into a clean space but won't have ventilation apart from leaving the door open. Possibly not a good idea considering the temps needed and winter coming?
Could someone post a link to actual paint, thinners, hardeners etc that would paint a GPz11 frame and some small bits and pieces from a supplier please to give me an idea of the quantities etc? Still open to both types and very open to any advise.
Cheers
I'm no expert but take advice from a mate who is an excellent panel beater. If you have a good mask you should be fine. chances are you will have a well vented shed by default, they tend to be drafty. Also you will know if the mask is not sealed or letting vapour through. you will smell or taste it. It is very noticeable when you take the mask off even in fresh air. If you get a good face seal, the amount of spraying involved in say a frame, block and a few pieces is very small in comparison to doing body work in a busy shop with multiple spray jobs and people working near by without masks etc. where extraction is vital. You might be spraying for half an hour and the quantity will be less, a half litre was the smallest quantity I could buy and I couldn't use half and that was after looking for stuff to spray, ( the old saying- If all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail!)
I can't advise on primers or paints but if spraying aluminium, you will need etching primer with some paints and you will still need to primer over this.
Regarding the compressor, I'm lucky, I have a 200 ltr. compressor at the shed for work, so I just put a regulator and moisture bowl at the take off and as I said in previous post an inline regulator at the gun. Regarding the compressor output, remember, you are probably looking at perhaps 3bar max as opposed to 8bar. The pig on the compressor is probably more important then the compressor output. If that is big enough you will have no problems. To be honest, as you will have to buy far more paint than you will need regardless, don't be afraid to experiment. You don't need to spray the bike parts right away, get some scraps of thin or even ply and practice. Once your happy all is good start on the bike. you will get runs etc. and not all pieces will come up perfect first go. Let then dry, rub down with wet'n'dry when dry and start again. This is half the fun!
There are disposable strainers and graduated mixing cups if you are using 2K. These are hand, get a half dozen as you will always use them, plenty of gun wash and enjoy!
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