Hi all.
Now that Im getting some miles my B2 finding the fork action softish. Its not really affecting the enjoyment/ride apart from the weight shift when braking. Everythings in spec with correct 10w spec and oil qty and max specified air pressure. Anyone exerimented improving the damping/stoke action?
It still has the standard shocks which work suprisingly well with original damping and spring adjustment.
Could be just me forgetting how lardy and tall these were! Been spoilt by evolution aswell.
Hello Guest User,
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
GPZ1100B Soft forks.
Moderators: chrisu, paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R
Re: GPZ1100B Soft forks.
I hardly ever use 10w fork oil and usually go for something a bit more purposeful usually 15w but on the odd occasion even 20w depending on the bike.
There are many variables involved such as riders weight and condition of internal components etc but changing the oil may bring you some acceptable results at very little cost, before you consider major, more costly alternatives.
There are many variables involved such as riders weight and condition of internal components etc but changing the oil may bring you some acceptable results at very little cost, before you consider major, more costly alternatives.
Re: GPZ1100B Soft forks.
Agree with the above. Both my manuals say 10W20 oil and modern 'straight' fork oil wont be the same as 40 years ago so fine to go to 15W or even 20W.
Oil level is very important but you can elevate it to reduce the reliance on air pressure. Air is a very poor medium for damping and should only be relied upon for 'trimming' the ride feel. I had most success with the median point for air pressure when i used mine on the road. I found that (unlike the factory manual method); so bike on its wheels, no rider weight, and open the air valves to release the pressure / vacuum, is fairly close to half way in the stated max to min value, being around 3-5 PSI ish. Putting extra (excess) air into the forks only makes them longer. It does nothing for damping but make a spongy bit at the start and end of each completed stroke of the forks.
The other thing about fork oil is that SAE is a very poor approximation of viscosity and not all manufacturers, of which there are many, use the same SAE tests or standards. If you are going to go up a grade or even two, try to stay with the same product range from the same company.
AL
Oil level is very important but you can elevate it to reduce the reliance on air pressure. Air is a very poor medium for damping and should only be relied upon for 'trimming' the ride feel. I had most success with the median point for air pressure when i used mine on the road. I found that (unlike the factory manual method); so bike on its wheels, no rider weight, and open the air valves to release the pressure / vacuum, is fairly close to half way in the stated max to min value, being around 3-5 PSI ish. Putting extra (excess) air into the forks only makes them longer. It does nothing for damping but make a spongy bit at the start and end of each completed stroke of the forks.
The other thing about fork oil is that SAE is a very poor approximation of viscosity and not all manufacturers, of which there are many, use the same SAE tests or standards. If you are going to go up a grade or even two, try to stay with the same product range from the same company.
AL
1981 J1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 102 guests