Z1OwnersClub GB

I haven't got any vapour blasters near me, so that one is out of the question.
Continuing to strip the paint off the cylinder head on the GPz11 and I'm losing the will to live. Getting between the fins with nylon brushes on a drill with the help of thinners is doing my head in. (Philippe, you must have the patience of a saint)

Anyway, I have a sand blaster (plasterers bath, not a cabinet) and have had very good results with the barrels, cam cover and sump. I'm leaning towards doing the engine casings and cylinder head with 0 grade SAND . I realise the implication of sand being left in the engine and wrecking it so everything will be gaffer taped to within an inch of it's life, then jet washed followed by warm soapy water and then another jet wash.
Question, is this OK or a very bad idea? I am quite happy to be shot down in flames but don't want the engine to be.

Cheers

What grade of media are you going to use? I use aluminium oxide 80 grit. Fast enough for old paint and rust.
Edit I just saw that you want to use pure sand, that will round off and remove aluminium fairly quickly.

You shouldn't use sand for blasting as it is banned unless it's free of silica.
If you want a good surface finish for painting use aluminium oxide.

I realise it's banned due to silicosis, but it is used here to strip oak beams etc. I have a helmet with a separate air supply and doing it on in open air. My Father in Law has silicosis and asbestostis from working in the power plants so I know the dangers to me. The question is, can I use it on my engine, what are the dangers to it?

In that case you will be fine using sand and the only dangers are the usual regarding getting every last trace of it out of the parts before building the engine.

Reckoning on stopping it getting in.or minimal

I've also put a sacrificial cam cover on, all the cam cover bolts, stuck rag where the cam end rubbers go and taped them and fitted the temp sensor.
Have I missed anything? Also some old plugs. The grade 0 sand is like flour, not very aggressive as in, no good for rust

If the blaster has enough pressure to remove the black coating it will wreck the ply you are using on the port plugs . I blast items and have done heads and barrels etc . If you remove the valve gear etc there is no need to plug the ports , you will obviously have to clean it thoroughly after . I use crushed glass for dry blasting , have used ally oxide in the past. Dry blast only will leave a dull finish which will pick up dirt easily eg finger prints etc. You need it vapour blasted if staying bare .
Look at my website for an idea of what can be achieved .

http://www.atmvapourblasting.co.uk/