Z1OwnersClub GB

Is there a trick or tool to get this bearing off? My bearing puller won't get in due to the lock stops.
Or is it a case of smacking the conical needle roller off then grinding the inner race....like a car front hub?
Cheers

I had the same issue Peter, ended up cutting it off with dremel slit disc and "persuasion" to crack the last bit.

Small(ish) flat screwdriver tapped in around the base of the race got it started for me, then you should be able to get a punch or cold chisel onto it and continue tapping it around til it gives up.

Thanks chaps. I'll try a screwdriver/old chisel to start with, if not, grinder and a tapometer it is.

Nah, screwdriver didn't work, the faces are flush, very tricky. Grinder then flap disk followed by blow torch tomorrow after work. They are so flush I don't think the bearing puller would have got in.

Take cage off first, blow torch small flame, there should be enough lip to then tap off using cold chisel, this is how I do them.

Cheers, I'll have a go at that before the more brutal method.

Hi Pete

they're sometimes hard to remove.
Use WD40 first and let it soak for a few hours.
You can remove those bearings with a chisel, short taps a little bit at a time, go round the bearing, you'll get there.
Take care with a blow torch, there's aluminium ! It starts to melt all of a sudden!
Good luck!
GrtZ
Philippe

I usually use a small but overly sharp cold chisel and start tapping around the joint between the bearing and yoke. Eventually a small gap will open up and then from there, a flat punch can be used to remove the bearing race by tapping it evenly all the way round.

r3sc wrote:I usually use a small but overly sharp cold chisel and start tapping around the joint between the bearing and yoke. Eventually a small gap will open up and then from there, a flat punch can be used to remove the bearing race by tapping it evenly all the way round.

this

Tried a bit of heat, possibly not enough, didn't do anything. When using the heat I tried gently tapping the smaller end of the bearing, too brittle, just broke.
Gave a good coat of my homemade penetrating fluid (50% acetone, 50% power steering fluid), sharpened up an old wood chisel on a flap disc......30 secs later it was off.
Just need to dress the little bit of damage on the yoke, will us a rag or be more careful next time.
Not sure if the GPz11 is different to the others but the bearing outer is absolutely flush, no lip at all, to the machined part of the yoke.
Thank you very much to all.

I notice that the outers were very flush with no lip when I took them off so when I eventually got them off I used the dremel to grind off 2 areas , 180 degrees apart, 2mm deep and 8mm wide into the seat where the outer sits. That way it's not a struggle next time - there's a lip for the drift to fit onto.