Z1OwnersClub GB

Hi Gents.

Looking for help/advice on removing the sprocket studs from a ZX9R rear hub so I can get the sprocket face machined for chain alignment.

Has any body done this previously, I assume the same would be for any ZX rear hub with studs fitted?

Thanks in advance

Gus

They just unscrew but are usually loctited in at the factory and can be very tight.
A bit of heat should soften the loctite and they may unscrew with two nuts locked together.
Failing that it's stud extractor time which will most likely muller the threads so new studs will be needed.
I do this a lot and rarely get them out unscathed.
If you are going 5/8th offset on the front that equals 101mm from the frame centreline to the inner sprocket face so you want 8mm off a zx9r carrier to get it all in line if the back wheel is true central..

Thanks for the reply.

Yes tried the two nuts and a hot air gun on one last night it moved slightly then went tight.

Might as well get my guy to weld some nuts on and remove them before he machines the face.

Thanks agin

Gus

P.s. is the thread in the hub standard m10 or fine like the sprocket side?

ta

The thread in the carrier is std m10 x 1.5mm pitch.

Thanks Rob.

I'm trying to go down to 520 at the same time.

My next question will be how to do/calculate where to put my weld on lower shock mounts with 350mm shocks to allow me correct fit of the chain over the swing arm pivot.

GPZ1100 B1 frame with ZX6 swing arm and ZX9R E1 rear wheel

Gus

Without having the bike I wouldn't know off hand for that swingarm.
What I do is get the front end in then the swinger and wheel in and set the ride height I want and go from there.
Every swing arm is different but to get you in the right direction i'd start by setting the distance from the wheel spindle to a point on the frame to the same as stock and then fit your shocks on the top mount and drop the bottom with the weld on lower mount on to the swinger and where it lands should be around the correct position.
Having the bike as a roller is best as this allows you to make visual adjustments, especially if the front end is longer or shorter than stock.
As for the chain pitch i'd go for 530 as that is the stock size for most modern kwaks and the sprockets are plentifull.

Excellent, thanks for that.

I've already got a 520 rear disc and a modified 530 front which I have worked out to be what I think is a JTF528, as i bought one to work with and it matches the modified one I already have apart from the teeth width which would have to be reduced.



Gus